martedì 23 settembre 2014

HEOHWAN SIMULATION S/S 2015

The Critique Collection Project 20’’. E’ un viaggio nel tempo la settima collezione di Heohwan Simulation, un tempo fatto di ombre e visioni di luce. Rivisitazione della moda anni ’60 con un percorso che attraversa vari mondi: il nero di Blade Runner carico di ansia per il futuro in cui la luce è la speranza per ritrovare una forma.
Così arrivano in aiuto le eleganti  silhouette  ispirate ai grandi sarti Pierre Cardin e Andre Courreges con contaminazioni nuove che richiamano la corrente artistica dei futuristi italiani.
Un mood futuristico, dunque, che propone cappe e poncho come high light della SS15, un recupero dello stile dei tardi anni 60… promesse e aspettative che restano nascoste finché non verranno realizzate.

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Grinko S/S 2015

Grinko chiama la sua Collezione Donna SS2015, “Syntetic Riot”,
lo stilista, vuole rappresentare il disturbo psicologico conseguente alle guerre attraverso l'iconica immagine di una bambola svedese.
La speranza, tuttavia, che l'uomo ritorni ad un equilibrio fondato sulle regole che la natura ci propone, è sviluppato dallo stilista attraverso stampe che si ispirano alla pittura astratta di inizio Novecento (Kandiski e Matisse), con elementi pop, resi tridimensionali, , da inserimenti di cristalli Swarovski, appositamente studiati dal designer.
Grinko nella nuova astrazione delle forme, richiama la “natura” nei suoi elementi più diversi , con l utilizzo di stampe esclusive su cadì e broccati seta in cui lo stilista enfatizza e rielabora con spalmature cangianti e colora con nuance tenui dai toni del bianco, del verde acqua del sabbia, fino al pervinca, accostati a pitone.
La donna Grinko, quindi, per la prossima estate 2015 vive e si muove costantemente in geometrie eleganti e fluttuanti, con capi dai tagli asimmetrici, e dalle siluette destrutturate, configuranti una nuova sofisticata femminilità. L’allure Seventies si fonde con tagli e volumi futuristici e spaziali che contribuiscono, insieme ad una stratificazione a fazzoletto a segnare una precisa elegante vestibilità. Gli stessi accessori, in cristalli Swarovski formati da pregiate spille e collane, sono improntati ad una rivisitazione dei gioielli africani tribali e ornano oltre che gli stessi abiti, altresì le meravigliose borse e pochette in materiali esotici (coccodrillo e pittone). Questi ultimi accessori propongono forme inusitate con manici a scomparsa e l'accostamento dei pellami a plastiche.
Infine, le calzature, della linea Mario Valentino for GRINKO hanno linee appuntite, con tacchi squadrati, avvolti da pellami metallescenti e cangianti.

 <<enter caption here>> on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy. MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) <<enter caption here>> on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy. <<enter caption here>> on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy. MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko)
 MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walk the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko) MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko)  MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Designer Sergei Grinko acknowledges the audience at the end of the Grinko fashion show as a part of the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015  on September 22, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Grinko)

lunedì 22 settembre 2014

Andrea Incontri S/S 2015

Galassie infinite, costellazioni iridescenti che parlano di mondi lontani, visioni psichedeliche ed esplosioni caleidoscopiche. In una parola: la luce.
Luce che, come liberata da una miriade di pianeti come punti luminosi nello spazio, diventa pura energia che si trasforma in movimento. Colori che, in una esplosione di vitalità, costituiscono una tavolozza unica ed originale. E come i colori, le texture sono combinati, sovrapposti e accostati per creare un contrasto armonioso. Raso e charmeuse per abiti sensuali, ultraleggeri stampati viscosa per i set di maglia doppie, inserti in lurex e tessuti fil coupé con pois o argento lamé.

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Borse che incarnano i temi e i principi che hanno ispirato la collezione, come evidenziato nella scelta innovativa di materiali come il neoprene e lacca, nella lavorazione unica con un iper-moderno flair grazie all'utilizzo di tessuti di schiuma. in originale, forme compatte e proporzioni, e l'uso della luce che riflette e rifrange attraverso le file di pietre e meteoriti d'oro della borsa Venere, la più pura espressione di femminilità.