CERRUTI 1881 SPRING/SUMMER 2019

An evolution that never loses sight of the quintessential House DNA. This is the leitmotif for the latest collection, which channels the dress code imagined by Nino Cerruti, in its most pared-down expression. Crisp, fresh, flowing, and soft are the watchwords this season; silhouettes, shapes, volumes and fabrics lead the way.

The collection is inspired by the timeless elegance of traditional Japanese textile design in all its subtlety. Classic textures, cuts, patterns and pieces are meshed with elements from the Cerruti archives and the contemporary chic of deconstructed tailoring, creating an airy look and feel. The rich palette of olive, marine and brown shades is typically masculine, while the fabrics are natural. Linen crepe, silk, organic Pima cotton (worked  in some instances so as to produce a paper-like texture), and nubuck — with technical nylon as a counterpoint in places — create the season’s most remarkable pieces, which range from striped jacquard tank tops and washed-silk jogging bottoms worn with trench coats, to jackets and coats with Japanese-inspired collars and sleeves. Technical fabric shorts become key pieces, mixed with both tailored items and casual coats. Like the Cerruti trench, revisited here in paper-textured nylon or linen crepe, worn with Bermudas or satin jogging bottoms. This streamlined collection is studded with a number of exclusive motifs — handcrafted tie-and-dye patterns influenced by traditional Japanese indigo designs, and stripes redolent of the kimono.

Paired with light, functional accessories, the tailoring is transformed. Flip-flops, babouches, slippers, sneakers with rubber soles, and sleek leather and canvas bags give the silhouette a sense of laidback chic. This season collection also introduces a capsule of unisex pieces with a resolutely masculine vibe – loose fitting, generously proportioned silk shirts, kimono inspires coats, relaxed tailored suits, pleated trousers and sleeveless jackets but all flexibly styled to suit both a Cerruti man and woman.

CERRUTI 1881 F/W 2018 COLLECTION

An array of post-punk, military and streetwear inspirations is the source for an eclectic, and electric collection, which is, as always, permeated with the codes of Cerruti chic. A palette of warm, sophisticated tones – black, burgundy, crème, khaki, nutmeg and mustard – and refined materials – velvet, shearling, cashmere, silk jacquard technical wool– create the counterpoint to an angular, wiry silhouette, with either broad shoulders, cinched waist or more fluid A-line.

Tailoring is featured, often in association with sportswear pieces, creating the perfect balance between formal and casual. Wool or technical jacquard track bottoms and leather utility trousers mix with oversize jackets and coats. Check, Prince-of-Wales and herringbone patterns are worked in their XL versions, as a reference to early 80s’ aesthetics, which are combined with an exclusive graphic motif inspired by the Bauhaus fabrics design. The trousers, in turn, have become more slim-fitting, with a higher waist, and in some cases feature cummerbunds. The thick, textured sweaters come cropped and fitted, to be worn layered or tucked into trousers.

Large, comfortable coats and outerwear are the season’s key pieces. The parkas combine technical fabrics and leather, to start with, while others are quilted or reversible. Some with piping. The military influence is present in the khaki shearling and wool cloth coats and vests, and in a nutmeg-color waxed leather coat, which is worn belted at the waist.

This season a few unisex pieces are presented on women. The idea of a shared wardrobe is expressed by borrowing from the boys. A military boiled wool trench, camel coat, parka and jacquard wool duster are parred with slim trousers and shown belted or accessorized as the men.

The accessories include quilted tote bags, nylon rucksacks and belt pouches used to cinch the silhouette. As are the leather belts with metal detailing, worn knotted around jackets and coats. Leather and calfskin sneakers impart a casual look to the tailoring, even the leather footwear takes on more carefree mood, thanks to their rounded forms and new interpretation on the hiking and combat boot. Metal aviator glasses add a final touch of contemporary luxury to the collection.