NOBI TALAI – F/W 2017

In an ongoing style journey that traverses east and west, Tehran-born and Berlin-based designer Nobieh Talaei continues to cross borders for fall/winter 2017/18. In more than one sense.
The NT.04 collection by Nobi Talai takes a more clearly dimensional turn for next season, the geometric fantasies of Bauhaus artist Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadic Ballet or the cubist forms of French painter Fernand Léger’s early works sparking a dialogue between two
and three dimensions and flat and rounded cuts. Or consider the sharp angles of Russian constructivism meeting the swayed sculptural lines of an Isamu Noguchi table.

However, do not expect direct art-tofashion correlations, but rather a further refinement of the label’s seemingly effortless style. Fall’s references find their expression in gentle balloon and curved cap sleeves, bowed skirts, blouses and shirt dresses that wrap, tie or drape in a circular sweep, while slits, pleats, and triangular folds provide a linear thrust.
Signature details like sash ties at wrists, waist, ankles, neck – and sometimes even at the shoulder – continue to allow the wearer to form her silhouette at will, as do fold-down cummerbund waistbands.

This season, reversible silk blouses and shirt dresses and double-face jackets provide further wardrobe versatility and pleats create subtle movement. Fabrics, including silk organza and georgette, the finest double- face wools or cuddly Steiff plush, and winter cotton combine and layer in a lively contrast of sheer and dense or warm-handled and crisp textures.

Leather too plays a special role, appearing as piping to quietly accentuate, as well as belts, suspenders, fall’s pivotal apron skirt in metallic or black, and a striking full length dress in white plongee leather. NT.04 also takes last season’s horn accents one step further, the designer working the natural material in all its colorations into a new accessories range of graphically abstract earrings, necklaces and bracelets.

NT.04 has been presented during Paris Fashion Week in the city’s beautiful American Cathedral on Avenue George V. For a designer whose personal and professional paths have crossed cultures and continents, and whose collection
addresses women of all nationalities and orientations, what better venue to embrace and celebrate Nobi Talai’s diversity and creativity.

ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2017

 

Creatività e modernità: sono i valori per i quali combatte la donna di Ermanno Scervino. 


Da un costante, ricercato gioco di contrasti con capi e texture d’ispirazione militare emergono, con piena forza, la sua sensualità e bellezza.

 

 

Il dialogo tra maschile e femminile è incessante. Cappotti e parka dalla vestibilità over, decorati come uniformi, hanno intarsi di pelliccia oppure sono proposti in nuances delicate.

Il tailleur si rinnova e diventa capo icona. La donna Scervino lo indossa nella variante in Principe di Galles, rilavorata e alleggerita con fili di lino, oppure in impalpabile macramè, anche con revers effetto smoking, e in velluto a macro coste. Il cinturone militare, morbidamente allacciato, è pretesto per esaltare il punto vita.

 

 

A capispalla mannish si abbinano abiti e gonne ultra-femminili nei quali si sovrappongono, grazie a innovative lavorazioni couture, ricami valanciennes, pizzi e plumetis: caste trasparenze di pura sensualità.

Per la sera, sono a contrasto le lunghezze: gli abiti bustier in rouches di organza su macramè, corti come minigonne sul davanti, si prolungano in uno strascico prezioso. Il plumetis su organza, raffinato e bon ton, rivela la propria anima rock grazie all’abbinamento con biker in pelle.

 

 

Gli accessori non sono un semplice completamento, ma diventano protagonisti del gioco: con i look più femminili si indossano cuissard flat o francesine, illuminate dalle borchie che compongono la coda di rondine, mentre l’attitude garçonne è stemperata dal tacco a stiletto.