For Fall 2016, J. Mendel stays true to the house values of glamour, elegance, and the power of sly understatement. For inspiration, Gilles Mendel looks to the oeuvres of two very different women, Art Deco painter Tamara de Lempicka and photographer Sheila Metzner, who both created images of glamour, beauty, and timeless elegance. His collection for J. Mendel embraces the rich, bold pigments of de Lempicka and the soft light and calla lily motif in Metzner’s work, drawing together elements of strength, fragility, and a deep devotion to the woman who offers no apology for her desires.
Obsessions of the atelier—tensions between tradition and innovation, effortlessness and craftsmanship—are explored through this lens, resulting in a collection that embraces the shock of opulence and the ease of luxury.
For day, an energetic mix of elements creates a playful take on effortless sophistication. A pinstripe motif is continued from Pre-Fall for a deft take on menswear tailoring in a relaxed silhouette. Rich colors in double-faced cashmere and surprising new textures like sueded crocodile combine for an effect that’s quietly yet unmistakably luxurious.
Night is a decidedly feminine affair, with opulent florals winding a delicate path through impeccably constructed gowns. The house’s signature pleated dress is transformed through the atelier’s artful approach to embellishment. Glimpses of skin add a softness to evening’s glamour; high slits, innovative necklines, and geometric cut-outs suggest a measured vulnerability.
Through the atelier’s constant innovation and feats of technique, lush fabrics and furs are transformed and even further refined. Mink feels like velvet. Metallic silk gowns and fur coats cascade like liquid, impossibly airy and instantly covetable. Deceptively simple silhouettes only serve to underscore the luxuriousness of the outerwear, lavishly cut in textures that must be felt to be believed. The same deep, rich tones run through fabric and fur alike, both transformed beyond their expected roles.
For Fall 2016, the J. Mendel woman savors the intimate embrace of indulgence, in a collection where true desire comes not through sight, but through touch; and true elegance lies not in the flaunting of luxury, but in its feel.
