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mercoledì 14 dicembre 2016

BARTON PERREIRA - COLLEZIONE SPRING SUMMER 2017

PATCHETT_SEAFOAM_SMOKEY TOPAZ

Once again, the anticipation that builds around the unveiling of a Barton Perreira collection is rising to a palpable level. Bolstered by an almost cult-like popularity for frames from previous collections, Barton Perreira has risen to a level rivaling competitors who have been in the field for decades. The glowing reputation of Barton Perreira’s designer, Patty Perreira, is richly deserved.
With her unique vision and attention to detail, Perreira, is a favorite with both fashion elite and retailers. Retailers, who, in their roles as purveyors of luxury wear, have become brand loyalists. With this Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Perreira’s standing as one of the industry’s visionaries is further cemented. Her thoughts on building a collection, as well as the ties that bind it together are a testament to her unique process. In this season’s collection of sunglass and optical frames, the audience will be offered a cross section of styles, using materials and processes that have become synonymous with the Barton Perreira brand.
Perreira is most proud of the fact that there are a number of mixed metal and plastic frames, and that the blend, in addition to its pleasing aesthetic, is very functional in the use of the combinations, and are very uncommon, as well. She notes that this craftsmanship is very technical and can only be accomplished in Japan, because their craftsmen are the best in the world. Also, of note, throughout the collection are new colors that are incorporated and exclusive to Barton Perreira. Perreira is fond of using colors from nature, rather than man-made hues. She likens her approach to coloring frames, the same way cosmetics are made to blend with a person’s skin tone.
A good example of the aesthetic melding of metal and plastic is the Winette frame, a favorite of Perreira’s. It is a modern take of a feminine cat eye, which her direction has led to the cat eye being reshaped/contoured for a retro/modern look (a hallmark of Perreira design). The body of the frame has a laminate of plastic surrounding a metal layer that accentuates the curve by extending beyond the plastic layer and halos around the lens. In addition to its obvious aesthetic, the metal layer is functional, as the hinge is attached to this layer. This style has colorways that are slightly transparent to opaque. As she looked to find the right description of this frame, in the end, Perreira rightfully describes the Winette, as “soft and feminine with a bit of rock and roll”.
Another new favorite is the Boleyn, whose name inspiration becomes very apparent once seen as it has a metal top half and a plastic bottom, a reverse of the norm in which the plastic half is traditionally on the top. The metal has a filigree of very intricate detail that evokes the distinctive car grills of the past, it can be thought of as a spin on an aviator, creating a unisex frame for the fashion forward
This brings us to the Aviatress, which is a modern take on the classic aviator frame, bringing a slight reshaping of the aviator, as well utilization of a plastic layer surrounding the lens and suspended by the metal chassis. This frame also utilizes the filigree that has been noted before and can be seen throughout the collection. There has been an acceptance of the classic aviator being used by women, the last few years, but this frame is specifically designed, with the female in mind.
Inspired by the 70’s and the large, glamorous Jackie O look, the Sadye is a frame where the handcraft bevel is evident. This look is created by carving out a part of the front to expose the back color.
The Patchett is reminiscent of, and inspired by a Bridgette Bardot/ 60’s Pop styling, another frame that utilizes the beveling of plastic to accentuate the three dimensional qualities
The Beauregard and the Airman are described as aviator-inspired rimless versions of the classic, that utilize an intricate hand engraved, tool created filigree that is finished and hand polished .
The Coltrane is a simple, classic inspired frame with a keyhole bridge. Simple and 60s Beat inspired, possibly something that Marlon Brando would have favored in that time period. On the optical side, The Kagan and the Prouve are metal/plastic combination frames that were inspired by architecture, they are classically shaped, balanced, and proportioned.
Also of note The 20’s inspired, retro all metal frame of the Belvedere, has a metal clip with a plastic insert that holds the lens, entirely changing the look of the frame.
The Joe is a pure, simple, classic frame. As Perreira says about this frame, sometimes the simple frames are the hardest to make, because when something is so simple, it has to be perfect. There’s nothing to hide flaws. The fit and balance has to be perfect. This is that frame. There is perfection in the simplicity of this frame.
On the women’s side the Gia and the Kotero are two frames described as “ flirty girl meets boy styles”, taking a masculine frame but softening those masculine hard edges to make it distinctly feminine.
The Nikki is inspired by a frame from a previous collection, the Camden, which was a popular sunglass that people were converting for optical use. The Nikki has taken that frame, but sized it down to be a proper fit for an optical frame. As always, Perreira has remained true to her inner voice to create a collection that stands alone, on the front edge of fashion, color, and texture. She brilliantly balances materials and inspiration to create noticeable changes by the slightest variations in colorways, as well as modifications to classic looks, making it a uniquely Patty Perreira creation.

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