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martedì 1 ottobre 2013

Milano Fashion Week P/E 2014: Sergei Grinko

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GRINKO chiama la sua Collezione donna SS2014  “RULE & DIVIDE”, dal machiavellico motto del _Divide et Impera_, a cui, però lo stilista desidera unire un’altra riflessione, che spesso si dimentica, ossia“unisci e governa”, secondo il dettato del grande poeta romantico GOETHE.
E’ proprio, infatti, dallo scontro e dall’incontro tra ciò che è inaspettatamente diverso da cui scaturisce un’armonica unione. E così attraverso una rilettura moderna delle tematiche e dei colori del Romanticismo e dalle parole della breve, ma famosissima poesia goethiana “_Ein Gleiches_”  (quella incisa sul legno del casino di caccia di Kickelhahn), impresse sulle stampe , ovvero ricamate sui tessuti, si giunge fino ad un nuovo concetto di _sport-glam_, dove la felpa ed il _crop top_ vengono reinventati ed impreziositi dall’utilizzo di materiali inusitati.
La tematica “_boyish_”, già proposta dallo stilista nel precedente AW2013-14, viene in questa collezione portata ad una rilettura ancora più nuova ed inaspettata con una proposta di forme geometriche, ma al contempo molto femminili. I _jumpers_ e gli _sweaters_  sono realizzati di preziosa organza di seta, così come la parte davanti di alcune gonnelle che lasciano trasparire internamente il lungo _chemisier_ fatto del medesimo motivo della fodera della stessa  sottana.
La gonna, quindi ha lunghezze diverse da mini a midi a long, ma soprattutto è essa stessa sempre più lunga davanti e più corta dietro, quando non si trasforma di un’ampissima gonna-pantalone, ovvero a forma d’uovo.
Le felpe ed i _crop top_, che sono per logica capi sportivi, trovano in questa collezione un ruolo estremamente elegante, perché finemente ricamati con stampe dalle tematiche oniriche, ovvero, se di maglia arricchiti di cristalli Swarovski il cui taglio e colore blu esclusivo trova la sua prima apparizione pubblica in questa occasione.
Ma non solo, le pietre anzidette, vengono altresì utilizzate al di sotto della visiera dei cappelli (Barbisio per GRINKO), creando così un gioco di luce inaspettato sui tratti somatici sottostanti del viso.
I materiali della collezione sono molteplici e vanno appunto dalla seta _crepe de chine_  ed organza, passando per un sofisticato _piquet_ doppiato, ad un inedito broccato di cotone e seta su cui è impresso in rilievo lo scudo della Maison, fino a giungere alla pelle (Colva by
GRINKO) che viene in questo caso lavorata  a rilievo, con un effetto tridimensionale, ma resa assolutamente leggerissima, quasi impalpabile.
Quanto, invece, al pantone dei colori usati nella collezione, secondo appunto, il dettato romantico, troviamo tutte le declinazioni del blu e dei suoi derivati (verde chiaro incluso perché legato  alla tematica del bosco e della foresta onirica) fino a giungere al bianco assoluto.
Le borse, nei colori della collezione, vanno dal borsone sportivo, ma molto elegante,  ad una rivisitazione delle  borse tracolla anni Settanta, fino alle _pochettes_ di maglia impreziosite con cristalli Swarovski
In conclusione le calzature che come sempre compongono la capsule collection MARIO VALENTINO for GRINKO, sono composte da scarpe maschili stringate basse, oltre che da sandali aperti , ma sempre bassi nonchè da una riedizione esclusiva della tipica decolté della Maison partenopea che l’ha resa  famosa nel mondo. 

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walk the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walk the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Models walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  A model walks the runway during the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Designer Sergei Grinko acknowledges the applause of the public after the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Designer Sergei Grinko acknowledges the applause of the public after the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22:  Designer Sergei Grinko acknowledges the applause of the public after the Sergei Grinko show as a part of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 at  on September 22, 2013 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Tullio M. Puglia/Getty Images for Sergei Grinko)

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