For Fall 2019, Ulla Johnson offers a wildly colorful and opulent celebration of pattern and form, telling a story of emboldened and poetic femininity. Myriad influences are brought into harmonious dialogue. Tribal motifs and color juxtapositions are seen in vividly graphic intarsia and layered stripes and patterns. Hand loomed fabrics developed with Indian weavers are lavishly embroidered with cascading sequins and trimmed in a delicate hand crochet that evokes Johnson’s Eastern European heritage. Diaphanous silks and crisp poplins are printed with hand drawn batiks featuring climbing florals and tropical birds, seen in eye popping colors contrasted with earth tones of slate blue, umber, cork, alabaster, and kohl.
With an irreverent touch, Johnson explores and charts new territories - animal patterns are cast in ikat denim and knitted into acid bright jacquards. An abstracted woven floral is spotted with lurex and seen in reversible puffers and a rich fuchsia and chartreuse cloqué, formed into sculptural frocks and exaggerated shoulders. Yarns receive lavish attention, as delicate metallic lace is richly embroidered with cream and avocado wool and cast in voluminous sleeves and floor skimming gowns. A custom silk velvet devore, woven with shimmering metallics, is gathered into delicate necklines, draped sleeves, and languid disco inspired frocks. A brilliantly gilded floral in blown up scale is screened onto black and sunflower taffeta featuring tiered volumes, peaked shoulders, and abbreviated lengths.
Alpaca in manifold weights and shades is hand crocheted into a lush eclectic patchwork, seen in nipped waist pullovers and gossamer skirts. Knitwear becomes structural, as boiled and double-faced wool are molded into new volumes. Pants are cinched high on the waist and pegged at the cuff, realizing a new, more generous proportion. Supple lambskins are crafted into high necked dresses and jackets trimmed with quirky oversized tassels and crochet lace for a charmingly offbeat effect. Outerwear is bold and luxurious, featuring hand crocheted patchwork shearling, Italian tweed, and a graphic blanket stripe seen in oversized topcoats.
Accessories are focal and in close dialogue with the ready to wear - soaring boots and cylindrical heels are patchworked in shades of antique rose and mixed leopard. Pointed mules and open toe sling backs are finished with hand whip-stitching and molded ruffles. Carved rings in reclaimed horn and bone are handmade by master craftsman in Nairobi, Kenya at family owned artisan workshops that craft entirely with sustainable, natural material. Italian marbled resin is hand stitched into bucket carryalls and crossbody shapes, while croc embossed leather is finished with rope macramé detailing in elevated totes and belt bags.
Throughout, Johnson elaborates on her uniquely free-spirited vision of dress, a vision that conjures beauty and strength through method and meaning.
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